For MacBess

Li'l sister Bess is heading off to a year in Scotland (I am incredibly jealous!) and so, in honor of that occasion, I thought I would put together a 'brief' history of Scottish costume.  I was thinking of doing a piece on Scots as a language, but in the end, clothing was more pretty to look at than words.  And what could be more iconic than a laird in his kilt and sporran...or perhaps not?!?!

Because you see, as with so many things, the romantic ideal is a hideous lie.  Right now that lone Scotsman standing on a hill (or marching in a valley, or rowing on a loch), head-to-toe tartan and wrestling a set of pipes that you're envisioning is probably not what most of history has to say.  R. R. McIan's iconic Clans of the Scottish Highlands (published in 1845) is a beautifully-illustrated travesty.  And Braveheart is wrong.  I'm so sorry.

The facts are, though, that proper tartan skirts didn't really crop up as a fashion trend until the 17th century (that's 1600 onward)...and then they were outlawed in 1746 after Culloden...and, to add insult to injury, it has even been suggested that the kilt mayyy have been invented by an Englishman!  Although I don't believe it.   But even if it was, the northern regions of Britannia surely weren't inhabited by ginger nudes until 1599, right?  ...riiight?

Right.  As I am sure Bess will soon be able to testify, Scotland is too chilly for running around starkers.  History major that she is, she'll also doubtless be able to inform us all that the
Highlands were essentially the West Virginia of ancient days (how fitting, knowing the history of Appalachia, eh?)...record keepers really didn't have much inclination to jaunt out to the backwoods and document the trendsetting abilities of the locals.  Which is a real shame.  Despite our not having much contemporary detail about traditional dress from 1000AD onwards, those brainy historians have managed to scrape together a basic rule of thumb for the reenactors to abide by (or, more likely, promptly ignore).  And that is...for most of history, 'Scottish dress' has either been Irish or Northern European. 

Boo.  What fun is that?  Let's just pull out the Braveheart wardrobe!  Freedom!

But wait, you rabble.  I've got more to say on the subject.  Sadly, it's probably going to be a vast oversimplification because I haven't got the energy to thoroughly take into account century, subculture, and social class...but do you even know what Irish and Northern European dress is?  Indeed.

So, back when it wasn't so much Highlands-and-Lowlands but more I-can-name-all-hundred-clans-how-about-you, the Scots (as it were) generally dressed in a Celtic manner.  This included a linen shift or tunic called a léine - sometimes embroidered and/or hooded - which was either either knee- or floor-length, depending on if you were a man or a lady.  This garment eventually became Ireland's (possibly) iconic Saffron Shirt, which was banned by Henry VIII.  Because the point of clothing in these days was protection from the elements, the tunic would be topped by a cloak (a brat, to be precise), and was sometimes accompanied by some sort of leg covering of either leather or wool.  And the style stayed like this pretty much up through the end of the 1500s.

At which point...enter the belted plaid!  This ancestor of the kilt and descendant of the cloak was worn as an outer garment in the Highlands and was, as the name suggests, a long strip of plaid cloth belted onto the body.  Now pay attention, because here is where they trip you up: plaid refers to the cloth - 4 to 6 yards of woolen blanket or rug - and not to any sort of checkered pattern; the belted plaid could be solid, striped, or checked, and in any color you can think of.  Apparently, to don the plaid, one had to place the fabric on the ground, pleat it up, lie on top, and roll (seriously.) like a hooligan.  Rad.

Clan tartans don't really come into being until 1800 and beyond, after the law banning traditional dress was repealed, and well after Jacobites, Bonny Prince Charlie, and the Battle of Culloden.  Only at this point did checkered fabrics corner the market (literally), and only then did Georgian and Victorian romanticism spur Lowlanders and Highlanders of all classes to take to the kilt.   Really, before this point, although Scottish districts may possibly have had local weavers with specific signature patterns and weaves, on the whole, easily-identifiable clan tartans would have been a potentially life-threatening handicap in the lawless landscape of earlier periods.

Hmm...I'm slightly sorry that I haven't mentioned the women's costume...but there's just too much else to cover, and historical authors don't seem to want to dwell on feminine clothing for some reason, so all of the descriptions are vague afterthoughts.  I suppose women would have worn modifications of male garb?

Anyway, I haven't even mentioned accessories!  My first thoughts were mostly erroneous - dirk (a blade), kirk (a church), berk (gasp!) - only one out of three, and if I had really known what I was talking about I would have said sgian dubh instead.  So.  I've already mentioned shirts (long, loose ones, I believe); in addition, depending on era and inclination, one might encounter waistcoats, jackets, coats, and lace-on-sleeves; tanned skins and hides for added warmth; hose, trews (a sort of shorts of varying length), tartan trousers, or occasionally breeches; rawhide leather sandals called ghillies or leather moccasins called cuarans; any sort of hat that eventually becomes the more modern Tam o' Shanter or Glengarry Bonnet; and a sporran, although even this leather-and-fur pouch is arguably a more recent addition.

Now, as to the outfit in action...there's a sort of kilt mystique out there that deserves at least a nod of recognition.  Documentation exists to suggest the Celts fought in battle covered only in woad...I'm not sure about that, but the idea has certainly carried over to more recent Scottish engagements.  Please do keep in mind that the belted plaid at least was a modified cloak and not a modified skirt, and so when warriors throw off their plaids and fight only in their shirts, this probably doesn't mean their 'noble parts' are vulnerable to a frontal attack.  Shirts, for one, were a bit longer than they tend to be these days.  Anddd as to what's under the kilt?  Historically, of course, undergarments as we know them simply didn't exist...but beyond that, I can't seem to get a straight answer.  I'll just leave it with one Scotsman's two cents, namely that "rough wool and cold winds on tender parts build character!"...and we'll have to ask Bess upon her return.

And - I'm sorry - but one last item before I wrap this up - my darling sister most likely won't encounter traditional Scottish garb (romanticised or otherwise) on a daily basis (I think?), but she very well may gain some experience with traditional academic garb.  And so, to keep everyone in the loop, I'll just quote from an instructional guide:

The St Andrews gown is knee length made of a rough scarlet fabric with purple velvet facings. There was a large inside pocket which would conveniently hold a bottle or can of a suitable libation. It was capable of being fastened at the neck with clasps but it was considered unlucky to do so. Similarly, gowns were not washed or laundered...There was a distinct heirarchy to the way in which the gown was worn which again may have unwittingly reflected the braiding and trimmings found on the robes of the aristocracy which designated the rank of the wearer (3). At Queen's College, bejants were mandated to wear the gown firmly on both shoulders. Second years were alluded to as “Semis” which may have been short for semi-bejant. Their increased stature was reflected by the wearing of the gown off the left shoulder. Tertians (third years) left the right shoulder free whilst Magistrands (fourth years and above) had the gown trailing off both shoulders.

Incidentally, if you're interested in another set of Roo family perspectives, she's promised to keep up a blog of her adventures here (although give her a couple days to get settled and 'find her voice'...no pressure, Bess...but it's gonna be totally awesome!).